Written on 18th Jan on a flight to London Gatwick

My parents have always told me not to get too attached to anything, so partings are less of a drudge. Good, solid piece of advice from folks a lot more experienced than me.

So why do I find myself inexplicably moved when I say goodbye to people I have known for not more than 48 days?

Besides, my time in Velidhoo has not been only fun and games. I’ve got tuna coming out of my ears, scars from mosquito bites and coral sting, and I resemble an apparition emerging from 48 days in a coal mine rather than an exotic tropical island! But I felt good, and at home in Velidhoo, almost like a local wanting the best for her island and its people, and putting up with little minor inconveniences with resigned good grace.

Sue, the new volunteer for Tiny Islands arrived last Thursday, and joined us right at the deep end as we finalise our preparations for the Beach Clean Up on Saturday.

With Sue - on our night fishing dhoni at the end of beach clean up day

Written on 9th Jan 12 in Velidhoo

My days here are numbered.

Sad thought, but I wont delve into that now.

Lets start with some happy news. Little Alex, of Basement Vision, arrived last week in Velidhoo to film his forthcoming documentary “Rainforests of the Ocean”. I call him ‘little’ because of his youth, but this has no reflection on the enormity of the project he is undertaking, or the far-sightedness of his vision to raise awareness of the impact of human activity and global warming on the diverse marine life that this island nation is so fortunate to possess.

First time I’m experiencing a documentary being made around me, but there is so much material concerning Alex’s subject matter here, that it is impossible not to get excited with him….. another addition to my repertoire of first time experiences while volunteering here in Velidhoo, as a part of Tiny Island Volunteers.

With Alex (can't mistake his profession), on our way to the "strangest picnic ever".

Written on 2nd Jan 2012 in Velidhoo

It is new years day…. another spectacular sunset in the Maldive archipelago. A lone figure walks on the beach, hues of orange and yellow behind her. She occasionally bends to pick up a piece of trash to put it in a bag she is carrying, or stops to look into the horizon – the water is blue, two shades – the powdery blue-green of the lagoon giving way to a deeper, dark blue of the ocean. She spots a bunch of crows in the distance on the beach, feasting on probably what picnickers left behind, and shakes her head sadly….

The lone figure is me.

This beach, unofficially called “clean beach”, is about 200 metres. It earns its name as it has been diligently kept clean since the World Volunteering Day nearly a month ago. Our aim is to maintain a beach area which the locals can enjoy without fear of injuring themselves on sharp debris or being put off by household garbage. Every Friday morning, Ingrid, Afrah (both of Lazy Gecko) and I hold free swimming and snorkelling lessons here for local children. The turn-out has, however, always been disappointing. As an outsider, I cannot help but watch with admiration, Lazy Gecko’s continuos efforts to actively try and promote environmental awareness and appreciation for the “living” ocean.

The beach, in its present state, holds a candle to any of the resort beaches.

wonderful beach with white sand & clear blue shallow water to the south of Velidhoo

Written on Boxing Day in Velidhoo, December 26th 2011

Belated Christmas Greetings to all, and my sincere apologies for my somewhat mulled silence over this period. My excuse is not lack of time, but lack of motivation, for the dearth of the festive spirit here has instilled a stubborn denial in me to be Christmassy on a personal level.

Noon on Christmas day saw me in the island of Manadhoo (the capital of the Noonu atoll) sitting in a cafe amongst a bunch of men, most of who I did not know, sipping cold Milo (a local much-too-sweet chocolate drink), chatting listlessly about taxation policies. The reason for being on this island on this day – to use the only bank in the atoll.

I squint, look out into the hot, sultry day, and silently hum the song by Band Aid,
“Do they know its Christmas time at all?”

I am truly happy for the experience though, and is nothing less than expected. This is what I chose to do….. to commit myself over the whole of December as a marine conservationist in the island of Velidhoo in the Maldives, and I haven’t looked back since I started.

Besides, I should mention that the rest of Christmas day was spent in the Hilton resort in Irufushi, 15 mins away by speedboat. Scenically perched amongst lush palm trees and tropical vegetation, surrounded by a crystal clear blue lagoon with white sandy beaches, and staffed by an army of efficient, friendly people, the resort might as well be on another planet. We are on our own ‘resort’ time, our own rules (in fact, no rules!), and nothing comes between pleasure and I except for the dreaded bottom line on printed paper, which I am obliged to acknowledge and settle at the end of our day there.

To see the excitement and happiness on Remi’s face, probably for the first time since she got here, has sealed the day as most successful and well worth every penny.

Dinner on Christmas day at a resort with Remi

19th December 2011
Written on day 19 in Velidhoo

Whoever said that December is a great time to visit the Maldives as it is the dry season (together with January and February) needs to update their information. I mean, seriously. As I write this, I am eating my breakfast in sodden clothes having run all the way to the restaurant, and looking out into the rain lashed sea – it poured throughout the night and the end does not look imminent. And this is far from a one-off occurrence.

It has been a strange week. Some folks leaving, others arriving. A wave of nostalgia hits me as I watch Penny and Stefan’s boat disappear over the horizon, at the end of two weeks here in Velidhoo.

I am the only volunteer left of the original four.

And that is why I need to qualify as an Open Water Diver. Pronto. Lazy Gecko have risen to this pressure, and now, after 5 lagoon dives and 4 open water ones, (and Afrah’s infinite patience), I am the proud holder of an Open Water diver card (which, I am told, is on its way to me at my UK address). This entitles me to dive upto 18m independently (though of course with a buddy). However, I know that I will not be doing this in a hurry, and it will take a few more dives with the comforting presence of my instructor before I am confident enough to venture out on my own.

"I'm OK" in dive language

A turtle followed closely by a bat-fish; one of the many I've seen close up during a dive or a snorkel

My 18 year old daughter, Remi, has joined me in Velidhoo for a few days. It is her third day here, and I have just about given up trying to get her to be interested in anything besides watching movies on her laptop and chatting to her friends on Skype and Facebook. If you are not excited by the sea and all that it has to offer, then the Maldives is really not the place for you. As for me – I consider myself most fortunate. Marine conservation (with Tiny Islands) is a rewarding experience on its own, but I also get the opportunity to integrate into island life with a local Maldivian community.

12th December 2011
Written on day 12 in Velidhoo

I wake up, stumble across the room and look into the mirror. A black stranger stares back. Is that really me? Hardly surprising though. As a marine conservation volunteer in the Maldives, much of my time is spent in the sun and sea.

I am comforted by the fact that sea water is good for the skin, and surely enough, I do notice it feels smoother. More importantly, sea water has calmed the itchiness of those mosquito bites! And – I can swear that my black mane of unruly hair is a lot more tame. The ancient Egyptians and Greeks used sea water extensively to moisturise and rejuvenate the skin and a few millenniums later, I’m happy to note that its effects are still the same.

Back here in Velidhoo, we are a volunteer less as Louise, the best diver among us, left us on the 8th to return to Europe. Not to be daunted, our flurry of activities continue, and my dive training is stepped up. I had my first open water dive a few days ago (under Afrah’s close supervision), and found the experience exhilarating, going to a depth of 10.9 metres for 37 minutes.

Not bad for a first dive, methinks.

A back shot of Afrah and I on one of my "training" dives

The winds have been strong around the island the past few days – occasionally ruining our diving/snorkelling plans. Last Saturday, however, we persisted on our picnic to the small fishing island of Foodoo, in spite of the uncertain weather, not wishing to miss out on our only “off” day, Saturday, when we are usually whisked away for a picnic – great way of letting off a bit of steam away from the home island. In the Maldives, each of the 1200 or so islands is unique with its own characteristics and appeal. The common element in all islands is the amazing sandy white beaches; coral reefs with a profusion of marine flora and fauna.

December 7th 2011

Written on day 7 in Velidhoo 

We are on a high, reeling from the success of  Volunteers’ Day celebrations on the 5th.

The idea was to get as much of the community involved as possible. A thorough beach clean-up in the morning is followed by an afternoon of activities – music, games and sports. I am surprised at the athletic prowess of the Maldivians, particularly the women. Volleyball appears to be a favourite sport, and we are invited to take part in some local games – “bashy ball” and “faiga thalha“. Both the games are strenuous, and while the locals shrug away the intensity of the afternoon sun as they shriek and run easily on the sand, it is a draining exercise for me.

A refreshing dip in the sea with all clothes on does perk me up considerably.

Penny & I posing with the local ladies during beach clean up

Penny, Stefan & I with a sand sculpture made by the locals

At the beach barbecue the same evening, I am impressed by the way dried coconut shells are used as fuel for the barbecue grill, showing the ingenuity of the community in making practical use of a product they have in abundance, which they would otherwise throw away. And yes – the barbecued fish is delicious too (though not without a kick as they had been marinated in a fiery Maldivian red chilli paste earlier in the afternoon)

December 3rd 2011

Written on Day 3 at Velidhoo

A shoal of banner fish glide a few feet away from me. Their striking colours of white and black making geometric patterns in the absolutely clear blue Maldivian waters. I reach out my arm to touch them, but they move away effortlessly. I regret that I’m only in snorkelling gear and unable to admire the brilliant abundance of sea-life in the depths they live in.

Never mind. My diving day will come soon.

As a part of Tiny Island Volunteers, Maldives, we are expected to behave with decorum, and set an example for the island community we are based in. Our mission is marine conservation, but we are also expected to teach English and environmental issues.

Our welcome reception on 1st December on the island of Velidhoo, in the Noonu atoll, left nothing to be desired. Brad Pitt could not have elicited a more pompous ceremony. Our speedboat docked to the sound of loud-speakers and music, school children dressed in their best holding out garlands of sweet-smelling jasmine. Town councillors and other officials all lined up to greet the island’s first marine conservationists from abroad. Expectations are high but can we live up to it? By “we”, I mean Louise, Stefan, Penny and I, all UK volunteers.

Getting to this island took all of 2 days from the UK. After a night in Male, Jo (a fellow Tiny Islands volunteer who I teamed up with at Gatwick) and I boarded a speedboat to Naifaru island where she disembarked to join the turtle project there. Another speedboat journey with the other three volunteers finds me on this 2500-populated island with gorgeous yet simple people.